Bob from Nature Travels goes kayaking and wild camping on the beautiful Lysefjord, just an hour by public transport from Stavanger.
It was early June, and together with my good friend Andrew from Switzerland, who’s been my go-to paddle buddy for canoe and packrafting adventures in the past, we would be travelling to the magnificent Norwegian fjords to spend some days on our Self-guided Kayaking in Lysefjord tour.
Discovering Stavanger
My Norwegian flight into Stavanger arrived just before midnight – a bit late, but worth it for a direct connection from Gatwick. The airport bus into town takes about 20 minutes and costs 179 NOK (about £14) for a single or 314 NOK (about £24) for a return, so you can save a few Kroner by purchasing a return ticket. Tickets can be bought on the bus with card.
Andrew had arrived from Switzerland earlier in the day, so he’d already settled in and had a look around. We met at the bus station in Stavanger for the 5-minute walk to Stavanger Bed and Breakfast, where we’d be staying for two nights before starting our kayak tour.
If you’re just looking for basic, affordable accommodation and a place to rest your head for the night, Stavanger Bed and Breakfast is a good choice – for our stay, the price was 950 NOK/room/night (just over £70). It’s very simple, but clean, quiet and very friendly. Our 2-person room had an en-suite shower with shared WC in the hall. The breakfast buffet (95 NOK/person, about £7) is a bit of a bargain as long as you’re up early-ish, as they pack everything away at 09.00.
I hadn’t been to Stavanger before, but I’d heard from Sofia that it’s a really nice town – and it is. Compact, but lively. A bit touristy in places – the gigantic cruise ships which dominate the skyline when they’re in port disgorge visitors in their thousands to swarm among the souvenir shops – but also full of character and charm.
If you’re interested in street art, you’ll be able to spend several hours happily wandering the streets and alleyways discovering new works around almost every corner. There’s some great architecture to admire as well – beautiful old wooden houses of varying shapes and sizes, with their modern counterparts nestling tastefully in between.
The main shopping area is full of colourful shops (and colourful characters – look out for the singing, bicycle-riding window cleaner). Andrew and I spent a good amount of time salivating over the wares on offer at the stores of premium Nordic outdoor brands Norrøna, Bergans of Norway and Fjällräven. But our packs were already full to bursting, so even the prospect of being able to claim 15% tax back at the airport on our purchase didn’t tempt us this time (if you do make a purchase, ask in-store about this tax back arrangement – many of the stores in town participate in the scheme and will be able to provide information).
Stavanger was, of course, the centre of the Norwegian oil boom when discovery of the vast Ekofisk oil field in 1969 changed Norway’s economic fortunes forever, and it’s a cosmopolitan town. When you’re hungry, there are plenty of global cuisine options to choose from. We discovered several delicious bakeries (Andrew has a mild addiction to kanelsnurrer – cinnamon buns – and, ever the committed travel researcher, managed to sample the offerings from pretty much every bakery in town during our time there). When dinnertime comes around, you can choose between everything from Norwegian to Ethiopian to Lebanese.
We went for dinner at Zouk, a Pakistani restaurant at Pedersgata 4. It was delicious and quite reasonably priced, with very friendly staff. If you can’t decide from the extensive menu, we recommend the Handi and Cheese Handi!
Whatever your thoughts on the oil industry, the Petroleum Museum is worth a visit if you have a couple of hours to spare. Entry is 180 NOK (about £14). It tells the story of Norway’s transformation into an oil-rich nation and the pitfalls and advantages that came with it, and looks ahead to a future which seems set to combine continued large-scale oil extraction with a transition away from fossil fuels. There are some fascinating bits of deep-sea equipment to look at, giving you a taste of life on the rigs.
Kayak Day 1 – Forsand to Dørvika
We’d be using a double kayak for our tour. We’d also be taking a tent each, which was an indulgence, but since both Andrew and I have been known to snore a little on occasion (or as I prefer to think of it, snuffle gently in a most attractive and endearing way), we decided it was the best way to be sure of a good night’s sleep during the trip.
Consequently, though, our space for packing was likely to be a bit tight, so we’d brought some dehydrated expedition meals with us to keep the volume down. As it turned out, we took most of these back home with us, as locals along the way kept feeding us. More of that later.
But we were lacking some snacks and lunches, so we stocked up at the Rema 1000 supermarket with everything we thought we’d need and rather a lot that we didn’t. As we struggled back to the Stavanger Bed and Breakfast weighed down by an indecent number of packets of lime chilli nuts (these are not for the faint hearted – you can almost feel them stripping the lining off your tongue, though they certainly perk you up a bit) and other assorted treats, I was seriously doubting we’d manage to fit everything in when it came time to pack the kayak.
We squeezed everything into our packs and boarded the bus to Forsand. If possible, download the Kolumbus app to buy your tickets – it’s convenient, available in English, and makes the tickets a little cheaper. Card payment may also be accepted on the bus, though not all buses are set up for this. You can also buy bus tickets at the ticket office at the bus station in Stavanger. A single to Forsand purchased with the app was 80 NOK/person, about £5.
The bus stops right by the harbour in Forsand, and the kayak centre is impossible to miss – a small, pink building which also serves as the Tourist Information office. There’s also an COOP supermarket here, open daily except Sundays and public holidays. While the range is not as extensive as the larger supermarkets in Stavanger, it has pretty much everything you need, so if you don’t wish to do your shopping in Stavanger, it’s straightforward to buy your provisions for your trip in Forsand instead.
We were enthusiastically greeted by Øyvind from the kayak centre to collect our equipment and get some advice on daily planning based on the latest forecast.
This tour requires previous kayaking experience. It’s not suitable for beginners (though we have many other options for kayaking elsewhere which are) and you need to be comfortable on the water in a range of weather and wind conditions.
Although capsizing is unlikely, particularly if you’re using a double kayak, it’s essential if you do capsize that you’re able to right and re-enter your kayak on the water and continue paddling. For 99% of the time when you’re on the fjord, there is no opportunity to land the kayak ashore – on both sides, you have either sheer cliffs or smooth sloping rocks dropping straight into the water.
With this in mind, before starting off, Øyvind gave us a brief reminder of the procedure in the event of a capsize – how to empty some of the water from the boat before righting it, and how to climb back in using the paddle floats to stabilise the kayak before using the bilge pump to clear the remaining water and continue paddling.
A more detailed 30-60 minute instruction session is available as an optional extra when booking the tour, and is strongly recommended.
We then carried the kayak to the small beach where we’d be launching, and spent the next hour or so pfaffing about packing everything. With any outdoor experience there’s inevitably a fair amount of pfaffing about, but over the years, Andrew and I have perfected this into an art form and can now happily spend hours messing about in preparation before we actually have to do any exercise.
To our astonishment, we somehow managed to fit in everything we had with us – including, unfortunately, the lime chilli nuts. Of course, before we could push off, Andrew had to try a kanelsnurre from the COOP. His discerning palate judged it to be acceptable, but not attaining the heavenly heights of deliciousness of the bakeries back in Stavanger.
With the rain falling steadily, we headed out into the entrance to the fjord. Better weather was forecast for tomorrow (though it didn’t turn out that way in the end), so we planned to kayak just a short distance today to Dørvika beach to make camp early and do a longer stretch on the water tomorrow.
The Dørvika camping spot is attractively located in a bay just across the fjord from the “Vagabond’s Cave”, which we’d be passing tomorrow. It has a wind shelter with fireplace and – oh, luxury! – a flushing toilet. Being close to the mouth of the fjord and easily accessible both from the water and road, it’s quite a popular spot, so you may not be alone camping here. We had the company for the night of a couple of fishers/hikers and a very nice chap camping with his dog.
While Andrew was out on the water trying out the fishing hamp we’d borrowed – and entirely failing to catch any fish – a small group of Singaporean guests arrived by boat with their Norwegian guide, Jim, for an evening’s wilderness cooking experience in the wind shelter.
This was the first of two delicious fish soup dinners that we were unexpectedly treated to during our tour. Jim insisted on sharing the soup he’d prepared for his guests with us, and we followed it with some of his excellent waffles made over the fire for dessert. Since we’d already started preparing our dehydrated meals, which looked a bit sad in comparison, we ended up having double dinner + dessert. Considering we’d only done about 90 minutes of paddling today, we had hardly deserved it, but it was a very agreeable way to end our evening anyway.
Kayak Day 2 – Dørvika to Flørli
When we awoke, our fellow campers had already packed and left. As we ate our breakfast porridge, we gazed out over the fjord to a sky of grey clouds from which a curtain of rain was falling steadily. This wasn’t at all what the forecast had promised us yesterday! But even the best Norwegian meteorological predictive technology is no match for the shifting microclimate of the fjord. The mighty, eternal cliffs pay no heed to the plans and dreams of puny humans. It seemed we were in for a wet day!
We paddled off across the fjord to take a look at the Vagabond’s Cave on the other side. A sightseeing boat arrived at the cave around the same time, and it seemed the guests aboard found us at least as fascinating to look at as the scenery, as we were greeted with frantic waving and friendly smiles from the deck.
The Lysefjord region is not short of visitors. Including the popular hiking destinations of Pulpit Rock and Kjerag, the area receives more than half a million a year, and, in addition to the regular ferry services, there are several sightseeing fjord cruises and RIB tours into the fjord from Stavanger each day to show guests its stunning scenery. But as a multi-day kayaker, you’re very much a novelty, and except for the odd detour to a waterfall or jetty, the boats keep to the centre of the fjord. You’ll usually be paddling along the edges, leaving you free to enjoy the awe-inspiring landscape in freedom and tranquility most of the time.
We continued on along the northern shore of the fjord, paddling beneath the enormously popular hiking spot of Pulpit Rock looming above us, past the lovely Hengjane waterfall, and onwards. The scenery was unbelievable, but the relentless rain was starting to work its way in, even through our Goretex kayak jackets, and we were getting chilly.
And this is where we really began to notice one of the particular challenges of kayaking in this fjord landscape. For any of our other kayak tours, it would have been simple at this point to pick an island, go ashore, and warm up with a nice cup of coffee prepared over the stove, perhaps taking shelter under a tree or pitching a tarp for cover until we felt like carrying on.
But not here. Most of the time there’s nowhere – really nowhere at all – to land, so whether you’re wet, cold, hungry, tired, or just really need the loo, there’s no choice but to push on until you reach one of the very few points where it’s possible to go ashore.
When we set off that morning, we’d foolishly assumed we’d find a spot somewhere to land and make lunch, so we hadn’t prepared a packed lunch to eat in the kayak or even packed the snacks down within easy reach. By the time we finally found a tiny area of rock we could cling precariously to so Andrew could clamber out and reach the snacks, we were seriously in danger of losing our sense of humour. Fortunately, flapjacks and (I hate to admit this) a few handfuls of those hideous lime chilli nuts lifted our spirits and staved off a major tantrum.
A few kilometres further on, we were able to land briefly at Sognesand (not an easy get-out, but by that point the “call of nature” had become a desperate cry for help and there was nothing for it) before, shivering, we pushed on to find a spot to camp for the night.
We’d originally planned to camp the night at Kallastein, a small, grassy area of deserted farm buildings on the northern shore of the fjord, so when this came into view, we paddled over for a look around.
It’s a very atmospheric place – under normal circumstances, this would have been a very nice spot to spend the evening – but we were pretty soaked by now, and the prospect of a “proper” campsite and a shower at Flørli, just a little further up on the other side of the fjord, was just too attractive to resist.
Once more we launched onto the water, our mood lightening considerably as the old hydroelectric station at Flørli (now converted into a café and hostel) came into view around the headland. Hooray! We’re saved!
There’s no wild camping at Flørli – camping costs 185 NOK/person (about £15) and includes use of the showers, toilets and (unheated) covered cooking/social area. There’s also hostel accommodation available, both here on the quay and just up the hill at the DNT cabin – and this is where we went soft. When Hessel, the lovely chap on reception at the café, informed us there was one room still available for the night (1190 NOK, about £90 – not too bad under the circumstances), Andrew’s eyes glazed over and went all dreamy, and I reached for my debit card without hesitation.
That’s another thing about this tour – the kayaking itself may be demanding (in terms of experience required, potentially challenging conditions and the nature of the landscape, not really in terms of distance) but there’s so much flexibility if you need it.
- Don’t feel like wild camping? No problem, there are “proper” campsites at Flørli and also at Lysebotn at the end of the fjord.
- Don’t feel like staying in a tent at all tonight? That’s fine. Provided there’s space, you can have a nice soft bed and a roof over your head both at Flørli and Lysebotn (though prices for accommodation in Lysebotn are a bit steep).
- Wind too strong or the weather too bad to continue paddling? That’s fine too – you don’t have to make it all the way to the end of the fjord. The car ferry (the recommended option for kayakers – it can be difficult to carry the kayaks on the smaller passenger ferries) stops at Flørli and also at Sognesand, so you could simply just wait and catch a ride with the next boat, either further down the fjord or back the way you came. Check the timetables if you’re considering this option so you know how long you’ll have to wait!
- If your original intention was to kayak down the fjord and take the ferry back, but the wind is forecast to be blowing the other way, you can simply start your tour by taking the ferry to the end of the fjord and kayak back up instead.
As with any outdoor trip, you need to be flexible with your plans – don’t put yourself at risk by doggedly sticking to an itinerary when you can make adjustments that will be safer and more enjoyable.
We ended up with a simple but cosy room in the old school building at the end of the quay, with a separate kitchen and hang-out area, where we passed a very pleasant evening gazing out at the fjord while our sodden clothes dried slowly but effectively by the heater. The prospect of dry gear to start the day tomorrow was very appealing indeed, and we went to bed happy.
Kayak Day 3 – Flørli to Håheller
After breakfast, and of course a kanelsnurre each from the café (Andrew would never have forgiven me had we not indulged), we tried out a section of the “Flørlitrappene”, the world’s longest wooden staircase, with a whopping 4444 stairs taking you to the top of the hill (as the staircase is very narrow, you can only walk up – you return by a different path).
Although we didn’t have far to paddle today and it was a lovely morning, the wind was forecast to pick up later in the day, so we elected to do the “baby” version of the staircase tour – just the first 800 steps and a scenic path back around and down to the quay – rather than take on the full 4444 steps experience. It was a short but lovely walk, passing a very attractive waterfall on the way back down.
We packed the kayak and pushed off into the fjord in glorious sunshine, just as a passenger ferry arrived to bring 80 or so guests to the annual art festival which would be taking place there over the weekend – remote and accessible only by water it may be, but Flørli is a happening spot!
As you progress down the fjord, it feels more and more like you’re on some kind of Tolkien-like quest through Middle Earth. The ancient cliffs tower above you on both sides, completely dominating the scene, and its easy to imagine them alive with a brooding consciousness. As we paddled beneath, we spotted in the rock formations the mighty faces of vikings, trolls and even a sleeping gorilla keeping watch over us as we made our way. We didn’t quite pass through the Gates of Argonath to enter the land of Gondor, but as you approach Kjerag and the cliffs become ever higher and more imposing, it certainly feels like it.
Kjerag rises 1100m straight out of the water, and it was there we’d planned we would reach today, to camp for the night on the small beach at its base. Though there were no aerial daredevils around during our tour, each year around 2,500 base jumps are made from Kjerag to land (hopefully) safely on the beach there. An incredible way to spend a minute or two, I have no doubt, but my adrenaline meter is set a little lower, and enjoying the awe-inspiring scenery from sea level was adventure enough for me. Just looking up at Kjerag’s peak from the water can make you go a bit funny, never mind hurling yourself off the top.
But before we reached Kjerag, we wanted to check out Håheller, an uninhabited farmstead over on the other side of the fjord and another potential camping spot.
And we’re so glad we did, because it was paradise. As we approached the shallow beach, the sound of bells greeted us, chiming gently from the necks of a flock of sheep grazing in the sunshine. We landed and went ashore for look around. I looked at Andrew. Andrew looked to me. Our unspoken, unanimous decision was clear to read on both our faces – we were going no further today! It was barely lunchtime, but this was far too nice a place to pass by.
With the sun warming us from a clear blue sky, we passed a positively idyllic rest of the day – taking a brief but certainly invigorating swim in the fjord, collecting driftwood for a small campfire, snacking shamelessly (and excessively, considering how few calories we’d probably burnt on our short paddle today), but mostly just sitting and looking at the view, which was just about as perfect as a view can be.
We shared our little slice of heaven with two Norwegian families who had arrived by boat and were spending the Pentecost holiday weekend there with their children, fishing, swimming and just generally hanging out. This was an annual event for them, they said, and one of their highlights of the year.
And as evening approached, Espen, one of the fathers, came walking towards us through the grass carrying a large pot, from which he ladled out another delicious Norwegian fish soup creation, this time one made from cod that they’d apparently caught themselves earlier in year up in Lofoten in the north. This was the second time in three days we’d been treated to extra rations by the generosity of the locals. Fortunately, unlike our first night at Dørvika, this time we hadn’t already started making our own dinner and could enjoy it to the full.
Kayak Day 4 – Håheller to Lysebotn
We awoke to a beautiful morning, with the water mirror-flat and the mountains reflected perfectly in its surface. What a way to start the day. Eating our breakfast porridge as we surveyed the scene, it seemed a crime to be leaving so soon, but although we had just a few kilometres to paddle to reach the end of the fjord at Lysebotn, the wind was forecast to pick up considerably later in the day, and we wanted to be off the water before it did. We would be camping at Lysebotn tonight, ready to take the car ferry back up the fjord in the morning to end our tour.
So we broke camp and paddled on, with the two Norwegian families, who’d be staying one more night to do a hike up the hill behind the farmstead, waving enthusiastically from the jetty.
The scenery at the end of the fjord is dramatic indeed – as we passed the beach camp, with the bulk of Kjerag rising sheer above it, far above we could see the famous boulder sandwiched in a crevice which is the setting for a gazillion selfies. From our vantage point on the water, a tiny speck was just visible standing on top of it – another hiker claiming their Instagram moment – with no doubt many more out of sight waiting their turn.
And so we arrived at Lysebotn, the end of our kayaking, but not the end of our trip – we still had the boat ride back up the fjord to look forward to tomorrow. We went ashore and set about assessing the overnight options.
Lysebotn is inaccessible by road in winter, but in summer is a popular spot for campervanners and motorcyclists to pass through on sightseeing road trips. The switchback road leading up to Kjerag has an incredible 27 hairpin turns, climbing 640m to the start point of the hike to the summit.
Consequently it’s also a popular spot to stay overnight, both for hikers doing Kjerag and road trippers awaiting the car ferry up the fjord the following morning. There are several options to choose from for accommodation, though all are inevitably quite pricey. As in Flørli, there’s no option for free camping (unless you go some distance outside the village, perhaps), so our first port of call to check out the options was the DNT (Norwegian Trekking Association) hostel. It’s lovely – colourful, cosy, and atmospheric – but we decided 2200 NOK (about £165) for a 2-person room was a little more than we wanted to spend. Plus, we were supposed to be on a camping trip after all, and had already treated ourself to one night of luxury!
So we made our way to the campsite across the road, which offers camping with showers and a heated kitchen area for 240 NOK/person (about £18).
We pitched our tents just before the rain and the wind hit – although according to the forecast, we should have been standing beneath a cloudless sky – and waited out the shower in the kitchen area, where we attempted to polish off some of our remaining provisions. By the time you get towards the end of any trip, some creative combinations can result from trying to eat up the leftovers, and Andrew decided that by this point, strawberry jam was an acceptable addition to pretty much anything. So we had jam wraps followed by jam smeared on chocolate bars (yes, you read that right, I’m ashamed to say), by which time the rain had stopped and, fuelled by the sugar rush from all that jam, we were able to head out for a very pleasant walk to the local waterfall.
We spent the evening in the campsite bar, which serves pretty average food, but much more importantly, offers a friendly welcome and a free pool table. I challenged Andrew to a game or two, thinking that this would pass a pleasant half an hour or so, to which he replied reservedly, “Well, OK, but I haven’t picked up a pool cue since I was barely old enough to see over the table.” I should have known I was being hustled – it turned out he was rather good. Four hours later, it was well past midnight, we were playing our umpteenth game in a row and I’d spent the evening being soundly thrashed. Another unexpected, but very welcome (except for the thrashing) component of our little adventure.
Day 5 – The Ferry Back to Forsand
And so all that remained the next day was to take the ferry back up the fjord to Forsand, where we’d rendezvous with Øyvind to return our equipment and pay a quick visit to the other kayak centre at Jorpeland before heading back to Stavanger. We breakfasted on porridge (heavily laced with jam) and arranged ourselves on the quay with our kayak and gear to await the ferry. You’ll almost certainly need to take your gear out of the kayak and load it separately, as it’s likely to be too heavy to carry loaded, especially if you’re using a double kayak as we were, so there’s a bit of organising to do before the ferry docks.
You can reserve passenger tickets for the ferry in advance online (and we strongly recommend you do), but the ferry company doesn’t currently have the facility to book kayak tickets in advance. Consequently, you’re not technically guaranteed a space for the kayak. This is no cause for concern – according to Øyvind, there’s only once been a time when the ferry was so full that it could not fit a kayak. Should this happen to you, don’t worry – call the kayak centre and let them know, and the solution will probably be that you board the ferry yourself as normal (and buy a ticket for the kayak) but leave your kayak in a suitable spot on the quay to be taken by the crew on the next ferry.
We were asked to wait until all the vehicles had been loaded, and we then carried the kayak aboard to be slotted down the side among the cars and motorbikes. During the voyage back (there’s normally an announcement once the ferry has departed from Flørli), you can go downstairs and purchase a ticket for the kayak, current cost 205 NOK/kayak, about £16. The passenger ticket itself, which we’d purchased online in advance, was an absolute bargain – 110 NOK (about £9) total for 2 persons for a 2.5-hour boat ride. Who says Norway is expensive?
Far from being just a retracing of our steps, returning back up the fjord by ferry was a lovely way to end the trip. The sun was shining and we had fun during the voyage pointing out the various spots we’d passed the previous days – our paradise wild camp at Håheller, the old hydro station at Flørli, from where the guests for the art festival were now departing, the jetty at Sognesand where we’d huddled briefly in the waiting room to get out of the rain, teeth chattering and a bit miserable, but which now looked wonderfully inviting in the mid-morning sun.
And so we found ourselves back in Forsand, where Øyvind met us from the ferry, we returned our equipment, and caught a lift with him to Jørpeland for a quick look there before taking the bus back to Stavanger.
The kayak centre at Jørpeland is an alternative start/end point for the tour. Although most guests do choose to start and end their tours at Forsand, Jørpeland is actually an excellent option which you should definitely consider, for a number of reasons:
- Jørpeland is very well connected to Stavanger with regular direct bus services on all days of the week. Bus services for the last stretch from Jørpeland to Forsand can be more limited, especially during weekends or public holidays, so a little advance planning is required for starts/ends in Forsand to ensure suitable connections are available (though there’s always the option to take a taxi, of course).
- The area around Jørpeland is very scenic and is a more open landscape than in the fjord, with a number of islands. The mountains provide the backdrop. Conditions are generally more sheltered than in the fjord and it’s much easier to come ashore if you want to, so this can be a great place to begin your tour. From here, it takes two days to reach the fjord, so starting here not only provides some extra variation in landscape, but is also a great way to ease into the trip before entering the potentially more challenging paddling conditions in the fjord itself.
- If you have, say, 6 days/5 nights in total for your tour, you can start at Jørpeland and end at Lysebotn, camping at or near Lysebotn on Day 5 ready to return with the ferry to Forsand on Day 6. Of course, you can also choose a shorter tour, for example starting in Jørpeland and perhaps planning to reach Flørli before catching the ferry back from there.
It had been a wonderful tour. We’d been warmed by the sun and pelted by the rain. We’d paddled through some truly magnificent scenery, experiencing a bit of hardship balanced with a bit of luxury along the way. I’d had the chance to spend quality time with my best friend, and we’d eaten an embarrassing number of cinnamon buns. What more could you wish for in a holiday?
Self-guided Kayaking in Lysefjord is available on flexible dates by arrangement between May and September and suitable for tour durations of 3 or more days. Previous kayak experience is required and, to be able to use single kayaks for the tour, you must provide proof of rescue training.