Bob from Nature Travels enjoys some skiing and snowshoeing during the first days of the winter season on our Discover Cross Country Skiing in Rondane experience.
After a seemingly endless, grey and rainy start to the year at Nature Travels HQ on the south coast of England, I was eagerly awaiting my return to the spectacular Rondane region and to enjoying some “proper” winter. I would be visiting the two accommodation locations for our 7-day Discover Cross Country Skiing in Rondane in early February, just a day or two after the mountain lodges had opened for the winter season, with a few days to explore the network of cross country ski trails and soak up the atmosphere of this very special part of Norway.
My trip began, as so many do, with a punishingly early 3am start from Dorchester to make my flight from Gatwick, so I was feeling a little fuzzy by the time my Norwegian flight touched down in Oslo. But one of the great things about this tour is that it’s just a direct train ride* from the airport – no internal flight or long onward travel required – so after fortifying myself with a bargain latte + croissant deal from WH Smith at Oslo airport (total 40 NOK – under £3 – who says Norway is expensive?), I was in fairly good shape as I boarded the train.
*Note: Otta is normally accessible by direct train from Oslo Airport in about 3 hours. However, at the time of my tour, there were replacement buses running for the last part of the journey between Ringebu and Otta due to damage to the bridge at Otta. Normal service is expected to be resumed by the end of April 2025.
We passed through mile after mile of beautiful scenery as the train trundled north – Norway really has so much of it that it’s almost indecent – until as darkness fell, I arrived in Otta, a small-ish town nestled in the valley, and I was met at the station by Jan for the 30-minute drive up to Høvringen. The road was carpeted with fresh snow, and as we climbed up towards the plateau, I asked Jan if the road was ever closed. “No,” he said, “but many Danish guests come here with their own cars and they rarely have good enough winter tyres, so sometimes we have to tow them out!”.
We reached the small village of Høvringen and, just as we parked up, huge, dazzling beams of light pierced the darkness and the falling snow like a UFO coming into land (I certainly don’t have headlights like that on my little Citroen). Out of the gloom appeared Pål-Erik’s “monster truck”, which would be my ride for the remaining few kilometres up to Smuksjøseter. I certainly didn’t need to worry about the tyres on that not being up to the job!
Usually, a vintage “beltebil”, or tracked vehicle, is used for the transfers, but until now the snowfall had been a bit less than normal this winter and some stones were showing through, so the pick-up was the vehicle of choice this evening.
Pål-Erik had already collected my skis for me from the hire shop, so we set off. With the truck making short work of the snowy terrain, we arrived at Smuksjøseter 15 minutes or so later and I felt immediately at home. It had been a few years since my last visit here, but the place has a sense of timelessness and it might just as easily have been yesterday.
It may only be a few kilometres from Høvringen village, but the lodge feels very remote – you’ve suddenly entered a different world.
The “old” and “new” parts of the lodge are connected by an underground concrete tunnel, which makes it easy to walk one from one part of the facility to the other without braving the elements outside. Somehow it also adds an extra little sense of adventure to the stay. I checked in to my room and made my way through the tunnel to dinner. The airport croissant seemed like a distance memory, so I was ready for sustenance!
Exploring Day 1 – Skiing to the Peer Gynt Cabin and towards Høvringen
It had been snowing during the night and I was only just able to get my balcony door open to enjoy the fresh air and morning view towards Baksidevassberget (lovely to look at, but not very romantically named – it translates as “the back side of the sharp mountain”).
It was a little murky today, but there was just a light breeze, so it was looking good for my first day exploring.
Breakfast first, of course, and from the restaurant came the delicious aroma of Olga’s freshly baked bread. I was greeted with a typical Norwegian breakfast buffet spread – caviar (lovely – don’t be shy, try it), pickled herring (even lovelier), hard- and soft-boiled eggs, cereals, porridge and a selection of fruits and cheeses (including the ubiquitous Norwegian “brown” cheese – which I have to say I’ve never acquired the taste for, but try it and decide for yourself).
This is also the time to prepare your packed lunch for the day from the breakfast buffet to enjoy when you’re out on the trail. You will see these rolls of waxed paper and brown bags in mountain lodges all over Norway – they’re as much a part of Norwegian culture as woolly jumpers. You’ll soon become expert at making tidy little parcels to keep in your pack. Don’t forget water and a hot drink to take with you – if you don’t have a thermos, you can borrow one from the kitchen and request it to be filled with hot water, coffee or tea.
I collected my map from reception and settled down to peruse it over breakfast. There’s an extensive network of trails to choose from, all clearly marked and colour coded.
Today I was going to be skiing with Martin from the lodge, taking one of the most popular day tours to the Peer Gynt cabin. It was still fairly cloudy as we set off, but just a balmy -5 degrees, so the thick mittens and extra layer I’d brought with me stayed in the pack for now and only light gloves and layers were needed.
The track to the Peer Gynt cabin is an easy ski along the valley floor and an ideal first tour to start your trip. It’s just 4km – which will take about an hour probably as a beginner – and is pretty much level all the way. There are plenty of opportunities of course to extend the distance if you feel like going further.
I was using the “backcountry skis” (1/2 skin fjell skis with metal edges), which are the standard option for our guests on this tour. They are a little more stable than “classic” cross country skis and, because of the skins and metal edges, offer more control on both downhill and uphill sections. They’re are also much more suitable if you’re skiing off the tracks or if there’s been new snow and the tracks are not freshly prepared yet.
Because of the extra grip offered by the skins, these skis don’t glide as much as classic cross country skis, but actually I was surprised how well they did glide and they were extremely comfortable and easy to use. If you’re an experienced skier with good technique wanting to clock up the kilometres during the week, you’ll probably want to choose classic skis, but for general use, the backcountry skis are the perfect choice.
Although we couldn’t see much – just tantalising glimpses of the surrounding mountains appearing occasionally through the cloud – it was wonderful to be cross country skiing again, my first time on skis since doing our Cross Country Skiing in Hossa and Kalevala tour in Finland the winter before. It’s just such a great way to move through the landscape: active, certainly, yet at the same time serene and meditative.
The trails are easy to follow and clearly signed, even if the prepared tracks have been covered with freshly fallen or blown snow. The trails on the map are colour coded, corresponding to the colours on the tips of the poles, which are placed in the snow every few metres. Provided you can see the next pole, you know you’re on the track! And from the colours of the tops, you know which track you’re on.
Having said that, it’s easy to get a bit too deep “in the zone” when you’re skiing along and forget to check where you are, so make sure you check the map regularly so you don’t miss your turning and end up doing unnecessary distance!
We reached the Peer Gynt cabin and stopped for a rest. Usually the cosy cafe would be open, serving their famous Norwegian waffles, but as the season had only just started, Martin and I had to content ourselves with enjoying the falling snow before making our way back to Smuksjøseter.
I decided to have my lunch inside back at the lodge while I decided what to do with my afternoon. The cloud had lifted and visibility was much improved, so I set off down the track towards Høvringen. “All trails lead to Høvringen” one way or another, so there are a few different options, but this trail is the most common if you are skiing down to Høvringen for a ski lesson (normally on Day 2) or skiing back up to Smuksjøseter after your lesson. It’s about 6.5km with a gentle descent and I think I made it about about half way to the village, enjoying plenty of photo stops along the way before my legs started telling me it was time to turn around and head for home. It was only the first day, after all!
Exploring Day 2 – Snowshoe tour to Baksidevassberget
I awoke to a sky glowing with the colours of dawn, and the forecast was for a glorious and mostly sunny day ahead. With the promise of much improved visibility, Martin and I had decided to swap our skis for snowshoes and take a hike up Baksidevassberget. The view from my bedroom window certainly looked inviting!
Although it’s a cross country skiing holiday of course, I strongly recommend you take a day or half day to enjoy on snowshoes during your week. Snowshoes offer another way to explore and enjoy the area, giving you easy access to terrain you can’t reach on skis and with no need to worry if your technique is up to it!
After enjoying another hearty breakfast, we started the steady climb up the trail and it wasn’t long before the views opened up to reveal the majesty of the landscape around us. During the morning we’d be treated to one spectacular view after another in all directions – over towards the mighty Jotunheimen mountains, to nearby Formokampen, and down over the valley with Smuksjøseter at its base.
There had been a bit of a breeze blowing down at the lodge when we’d started, and I’d assumed it would be pretty windy up on the plateau, but as we reached the top it was completely still. The silence was palpable and the views simply tremendous.
From the ridge of Baksidevassberget, we could see in all directions, including down onto the lodge in the valley below.
It was definitely a moment that required commemoration with a photo, and Martin obliged as I tried to strike a not-too-daft-looking pose.
Coming up had been relatively easy – we’d taken it slowly, chatting and enjoying the view – but coming down was even easier and terrific fun. With the snow deep and fresh, we could almost run down the hill, and it wasn’t long before we were back on the valley floor.
We took a quick look at the lodge’s wood-fired sauna and ice swimming hole as we passed. Electric sauna is available for guests in the lodge every night. The wood-fired sauna is normally lit once a week on a Thursday, so if you’re there on a Thursday, don’t miss it!
It had been an active morning, but with the weather so beautiful, I couldn’t resist heading out again after lunch for some skiing. I took the opportunity to ski back some of the way to the Peer Gynt cabin to work on my technique and take some extra photos now the skies had cleared, before heading back to the lodge for another huge dinner and a solid night’s sleep.
Exploring Day 3 – Skiing from Smuksjøseter to Putten Seter
Today I’d be leaving Smuksjøseter and skiing to Putten Seter, the second accommodation during the week (you will normally spend three nights at each location during your tour), to meet Anette there before heading back to Otta.
Again, the weather gods were smiling on me – not quite as gloriously sunny as yesterday, but good visibility, no wind, and still surprisingly mild at just a few degrees below zero. It was an “up and over” route to Putten Seter and the trail I was taking would be about 9km. Taking it easy I expected it to take about 2 hours.
The first couple of kilometres took me back along the trail to the Peer Gynt cabin, which was familiar by now, before it was time to turn off for a short but quite steep climb to get me up onto the plateau.
It wasn’t far to the top, but I was puffing by the time I crested the steepest bit and the trail started to level out. There was quite a bit of fresh snow, so the going was a bit tricky, but with a combination of less-than-graceful herringbone and some side-stepping, I made it. I was certainly glad of the metal edges on my skis for this bit.
Once up, the hard work of the day was done. It was an absolute joy skiing across the plateau and I took plenty of time to enjoy the feeling of space and silence. I have to admit to having a bit of a lump in my throat knowing that this was my last ski day and I’d soon be leaving Rondane again.
It was getting pretty sunny now, too, and I was glad I’d remembered to put on the sunscreen before leaving the lodge!
The plateau section was the “wildest”-feeling part of the route, and I knew that I’d soon be dropping down towards the treeline and the cosiness of the village below.
But for now, it was just wonderful to be up here.
Even though the trails were not freshly prepared, there was a lovely compact base of snow to ski on, with the clear trail markers showing the way.
But I had an appointment to keep, and I couldn’t hang around here all day. The plateau trail soon joined one of the main trails up from the village, and this had been newly prepared. After working a bit harder during the first part of the tour, it was luxury to plant my skis in these fresh tracks and just glide gently down the hill towards the trees.
Approaching Putten Seter, I passed the turn-off to the trail up to Formokampen, of which I’d had great views on our snowshoe tour the day before. I wouldn’t be going up there myself on this occasion, but this is a very good option for a day tour during your stay at Putten Seter, though snowshoes are generally a better choice than skis for the trip.
Although possible with skis, the last part of the climb (and the descent afterwards) is challenging on skis unless you are experienced. Snowshoes offer a much more accessible way to make it to the top.
And then the views changed as the trail passed into the treeline and the mountains gave way to a softer landscape of forest and rolling hills. It was a lovely contrast, and this area also offers good flexibility to adjust your plans depending on the weather – it’s just a short ski back to the plateau, but if it’s windy or if visibility is poor, there are still plenty of options to ski trails in the more sheltered forest area.
And suddenly (pretty much on time, too), my little tour was at an end. I glided to the front door of Putten Seter, took off my skis, and stepped into its welcoming warmth for a chat with the lovely Anette.
An hour or so later, after Anette had re-energised me with waffles and hot chocolate, Jan pulled in to pick me up. We stopped in Høvringen for a chat with Jørgen from the ski hire centre there before Jan took me back to Otta for the start of my journey home.
It felt too soon to be leaving, but my few days in Rondane had reminded me what winter should be like. Maybe the memories would sustain me through a few more weeks of grey, rainy England until my visit to Sweden next month.
On the train back to Oslo, the conductor came round handing out chocolates. As if I needed any more reasons to love Norway!
Best regards
Bob from the Nature Travels Team